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Issue 7 - For the Taste of it ! |
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It was buying fresh fruits and vegetables in the markets during a recent visit to Italy that did it. Or more specifically the taste of what I had bought. It awoke flavour memories that I had long forgotten and that I was determined to find when I got back to Australia. It was a revelation that there were still places in the world where taste is far more important than holding attributes and where fruits and vegetables are grown to be eaten quickly and not to be stored in cool rooms for future release.
For the Taste of it!
It was buying fresh fruits and vegetables in the markets during a recent visit to Italy that did it. Or more specifically the taste of what I had bought. It awoke flavour memories that I had long forgotten and that I was determined to find when I got back to Australia.
It was a revelation that there were still places in the world where taste is far more important than holding attributes and where fruits and vegetables are grown to be eaten quickly and not to be stored in cool rooms for future release.
The reason for this commercialisation of produce is, we are told, in response to a perceived demand by consumers to be able to eat whatever they wish whether it is in season or not. Whether this is the case or not, it neatly coincides with the expertise of chemical companies in manipulating technology so that they can introduce genes into plants to improve resistance to various diseases, extend shelf life and create new characteristics. These new characteristics are mainly to do with longevity, ease of growing and good looks but, in most instances, to the detriment of good taste.
Critics of these GMO (genetically modified organisms) and GE (genetically engineered) foods say that the jury is still out on the long term effects that modified crops will have to the health of the public. However consumers have seem to have made up their own minds and the backlash against the use of GMOs has activated a response from government and food manufacturers who are making sure that their customers know that they do not use modified foods in the preparation of their products.
In all these debates the organic farmers sit on the side of the angels. In Europe where all the food scares have made organic farming a necessity, some governments, Germany being one, are paying their farmers to convert to organic methods. The popularity of organic foods is such that the Sainsbury Supermarket Chain in the UK sells more than $A7m worth each week. In all, the international organic market is worth $A50 billion dollars and is expected to grow exponentially.
If we have been a little slow in Australia in picking up on the organic trend it is probably because we have always had a very clean environment even if the use of chemicals has been wide spread. However all this is changing. One has only to see the popularity and the growth of fresh food markets around the country to understand how extensive this change has become. Whether it has been driven by a desire to buy directly from the producer to ensure freshness and quality or because taste and flavour is becoming more and more important as we start to understand what we are missing out on, it is hard to say. Certainly the demand for foods that are free from chemicals is driving many shoppers who want organically grown produce for themselves and their families.
Of course not everything on sale in the growers markets is grown organically. To be sure one has to check the credentials of the grower and the certification of the produce. The days of spotty fruit as a give away is no longer a given. These days organic farmers can product quality good looking fruits and vegetables and they certainly win hands down on taste. What they cannot compete on is price. The cost of converting a farm to organic takes three years - three years before the soil is free of chemicals and the farmer can start using good husbandry practices. Organic crops yield less than those from conventional farming practises and they are much more labour intensive so organic farmers cannot compete in price. Those that buy organic products feel that the extra cost is a small price to pay for safe, chemically free foods.
We plan, in Gourmet Shopper, to produce a list of Growers Markets around Australia. Some will be fully organic food markets others will be growers markets where you can talk directly to the farmer and buy fresh, quality products or handmade jams and sauces, breads, locally produced olive oils, cheeses straight from the farm gate - if you cant shop through us online, why wouldnt you want to have the special experience of shopping and talking to the producer.
Growers markets are proliferating all over the country and whilst we will endeavour to keep our lists up to date, we hope that you will let us know of any markets in your area that we can add.
It wont be long before we wont need to go to Italy to taste wonderful fresh fruits and vegetables. That would be a shame of course and I dont think for a minute that it will stop us from travelling there but how marvellous to think that we can share their joy in food.
The Happy Gourmet
Quote of the month:
In cooking, as in all arts, simplicity is the sign of perfection
Curnonsky
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