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OzeVillage
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Dried Porcini |
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Porcini mushrooms have two lives. They enter this world first--and fleetingly--as sizable, fleshy fungi with spongy caps and thick, meaty stems, looking rather like heavily padded umbrellas.
Porcini mushrooms have two lives. They enter this world first--and fleetingly--as a rather large, fleshy fungi with spongy caps and thick, meaty stems, looking rather like heavily padded umbrellas. The French call them Cèpes, the Germans Steinpilz or Herrenpilz, but in Australia, where they can only be bought dried, the Italian name, Porcini, is the most usual name to look for. They have a rich, woodsy smell that signals their concentrated flavour and because they have been dried they have a deeper, smokier and chewier texture than the fresh. They are used to give a rich, deeply satisfying mushroom flavour to whatever dish they are added to.
Quality can vary
Because Porcini are most often sold in cellophane, you have to judge them by their looks. If you can smell them, check that they smell woodsy and earthy, not musty or medicinal. Be sure the label says Porcini or occasionally they may be called Cèpes. (The Latin name is Boletus edulis). Generically named "dried mushrooms" will be just that - an unnamed variety (or varieties) that are pallid in flavour compared to real Porcini.
In general, darker colour means more intense flavour. Look for large, intact, beige pieces; their more delicate flavour is probably more to your taste. Extremely dark Porcini may be older and unpleasantly strong. Whether light or dark, a uniformity of colour is a good sign.
Look for a lot of caps rather than rectangular stems. The stems are equally flavourful, but their ends can be tough and encrusted with dirt, requiring a quick trim (which is easier to do after they've been rehydrated). Finally, the best Porcini should be free of the rough texture and pinholes made by insects. Store dried Porcini in a cool, dry place in a closed container.
Use the "liquid gold" you get from soaking
To prepare dried Porcini, steep them in just enough boiling water to cover. Leave them to soak until tender, usually about 30 minutes. The dark-brown liquid that results has even more flavour than the Porcini themselves. Strain it through moistened cheesecloth or just pour it off carefully, discarding the sediment in the bottom of the bowl. Use this potent Porcini "liquor" to enrich a vegetable broth or soup, a stew or risotto, or as the basis of a sauce. Use sparingly - too much of this liquid can overwhelm your dish. Give the softened Porcini pieces a final rinse in clean water to get rid of any stubborn grit. After rinsing, drain the Porcini on a double layer of paper towels, cover with another sheet, and pat dry.
Try Porcini oil and "dust"
Porcini oil is a wonderful condiment that can turn a simple piece of fish or chicken into a gourmet dinner. Simply simmer the reconstituted Porcini in olive oil and a little salt for about 15 minutes to lightly infuse the oil; puree the mixture in a blender or a food processor, and store it in the fridge. Its flavour will build over the course of a few days and it will last at least a month. You can use the oil only or mix the solids and the oil together for a fuller flavour. Then spoon the redolent, woodsy oil over cooked fish or meat. Make Porcini powder by whirring dried (not reconstituted) Porcini in a food processor or blender. Mix a little of this "dust" into biscuit or bread dough, or dredge veal or chicken pieces or fillets of fish in it before sautéing in a pan. This will give a subtle, earthy flavour to the flesh. You can even top the cooked meat or fish with some of the Porcini oil you have made for an even more intense taste.
Experiment with reconstituted Porcini
- Sauté chopped garlic, parsley, fresh sage, and lemon zest together in olive oil with coarsely chopped, softened Porcini and spoon over chicken, veal, pork, or fish fillets.
- Sauté the softened Porcini with other fresh mushrooms and serve on grilled bread under a blanket of melted mozzarella.
- Top grilled fish with Porcini oil and diced tomatoes and serve garnished with fresh basil.
- Cook sliced or diced potatoes in Porcini soaking water (extended with more water as necessary) toss with Porcini oil, crumbled goat cheese, and fresh chives.
- Add the softened Porcini pieces and some of the juice to your risotto - it is delicious
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